Awake before the alarm went off - I laid there not quite ready to get up. However, we had a date with the Pope, so I'd say that is kinda important. The weather is a brisk yet lovely 57 degrees and at this point the sun is out. John, Cara and the kids took out early as they stood in line for tickets yesterday and wanted to actually sit in the audience of the Pope, but we opted for a later start which meant we'll be standing in the background. So our bit of a slightly more leisure morning meant breakfast at the hotel. It was a nice spread of hams, bacon (not crispy as usual in Europe), eggs, toast, fruits, yogurts and I experienced a delightful pastry where a stack of fluffy layers of sweet tender pastry were adorned with a dollop of Nutella and icing. Um, yeah...so I hope I can work via Internet because I'm never coming home.
So before I get started on today's adventure, I forgot to mention a few things yesterday. As usual, there are people all over the streets trying to sell you things. In the past it would be scarves, sunglasses, toys, etc. However, today, technology rules. What are they selling now you ask? They are now pushing selfie sticks and mini charges. Yep, the street beggars/vendors have gone techno. But watch your eyes people! Selfies are happening at every turn. Tourist + long expandable sticks = trouble. In fact, the castle we went into today had their big list of "NOs" before you entered and selfie sticks were on the list. Who knew they'd be so dangerous?
The second thing I forgot to mention was our experience with the hop on hop off bus. The tourist people convinced us to go on the Yellow Rome Open Tour bus, but we have decided it was a mistake. The Red bus is everywhere and comes way more frequently. The headsets on the Yellow bus didn't work well and the narration was LIMITED! Usually they are talking non-stop, but only occasionally did we get information. So for hop-on-hop-off riders...we'd recommend you stay Red. We didn't experience the Red line ourselves to know first hand how the narration and headsets worked, but our guess is it had to be better!
So with that said, let's talk Pope. As we arrived at the Vatican, he was riding around the crowd in the Popemobile. My thoughts are - this man is not afraid to die. I'm sure the Swiss Guard guys are quite amazing...but being open in the crowd like that - he is definitely an easy target. He is not surrounded by glass, just out there for the people. I like that. We all have our walkie talkies...so we talked with John and they had excellent seats close to the front. At a certain time they must not let ticket holders in as Guy's mom and dad were told "no" when they tried to get to the seats. But we were cool with standing back and not being one of 1000s of sardines packed into a very holy, yet tiny pond. As he spoke, occasionally some of his speech was translated into English but most of the homily was in Italian. So we got some lovely photos and decided to get a head start toward the Castel Sant 'Angelo. This castle is connected to the Vatican, built in 135 AD and has quite the history. Per Wiki:
The Mausoleum of Hadrian, usually known as Castel Sant'Angelo (English: Castle of the Holy Angel), is a towering cylindrical building in Parco Adriano, Rome, Italy. It was initially commissioned by the Roman Emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum for himself and his family. The building was later used by the popes as a fortress and castle, and is now a museum. The Castel was once the tallest building in Rome. -
The best part of the castle is the view from the top. It is amazing and even tho selfie sticks were banned, they sprung out at the top. Rome is an amazing city. I don't think it is a city I'd choose to live in full time, but I love being here and thinking about the history that surrounds me - its role in Biblical times, the days of the Gladiators, the games played here - both competivitve and cruel. Now is the perfect time to have that Google chip implanted in my brain so I could look around and know all historical facts as my eyes looked around. Some day that will be possible I'm sure.
Now for lunch. Since my phone has 4G we Trip Advisored a place for lunch located just across the river from the castle. The restaurant was called Ponte Vittorio and was quite delicious. The owner was polite and took our order. He brought us "focaccia" bread, but was basically thin pizza dough with a bit of olive oil and salt on it. It was excellent. Then came the food. The portions were just right and we had a variety of goodies. The kids all had pasta with clams, some of us rigatoni with eggplant, ravioli, pizza, carbonara, etc. So we had a nice selection of the menu. After dinner the owner brought us a selection of cookies and limoncello filled chocolates made by a friend of his that lives in Sorrento. Those were off the charts!
Looking to the sky we made our next strategic plan. Betty and John headed back to the room as the rest of us headed toward the Pantheon and prepared for the rain to begin. Our first stop was a huge piazza with the famous Fountain of the Four Rivers. The entire area was packed with vendors selling all kinds of goods - lots of paintings but definitely not originals. So as we saw them packing up, we took it as a clue the rain was on the way. So just a block or so from the Pantheon the drizzle began and we went inside to take cover and marvel at the stunning architecture. Ancient.eu says: "The Pantheon is the best preserved building from ancient Rome and was completed in 125 AD in the reign of Hadrian. Its magnificent dome is a lasting testimony to the genius of Roman architects and as the building stands virtually intact it offers a unique opportunity for the modern visitor to step back 2,000 years and experience the glory that was Rome". Nicely said.
It started to rain pretty good, so we popped out our umbrellas and headed out. Guy, Rosalie and I eventually caught a cab and headed back to the hotel while John, Cara and the kids continued their explorations (and to my dismay they discovered a cat sanctuary without me!) We were back at the hotel sipping cappuccinos as they made their way back damp but full of stories!
Dinner was a Trip Advisor selection. Our first choice only took Euros so we decided to go with selection #2 - the Trattoria Vecchia Roma. When we arrived it was in a basement of a building but decorated like a Italian hipster type place. It wasn't really full, but they were full of reservations and for sure had no spot for a 10. So since it looked so nice, we did make reservations for tomorrow night. So we are set! But tonight...the dilemma began. So back to choice #1. Cara and Betty pulled together their Euros to see what they had. They gave us a thumbs up and we headed toward Club Machiavelli. #63 out of 9,366 places to eat in Rome. As we entered there was not a single customer, but when we said we had 10 they had to do the math and figure out all their reservations. They put 3 tables of two together and filled it with chairs. No problem! The menu is VERY LIMITED, so thank goodness the Alongi kids are not afraid to try new things. We had not been seated for long and out came the owner to explain the menu. He had a pointed beard and spoke in broken English, but began the stories of where he got the food - all the way down to where the onions and flowers came from (edible flowers of course!). After each item he would say "attention" and explain the next item. He would say he only had one more thing to say, but he said that about 5 times and said "attention" about 10 times. He was funny but so serious about his food. By the time he was done, we didn't care if the food was good or not, we had already had a great time! He did say that several items took some time to bake in the oven. We were not sure if he said 15 minutes or 50 minutes but we were pretty sure he said 15. However....it was more like 50 between the appetizers and the meal. LOL! So appetizers were some kind of fried flower only found in Italy 3 weeks out of the year (how can you not order that?) and a spinach "flan". All were delicious. Our meals consisted of eggplant with capers and smoked cheese, a carbonara type dish - one with the onions he talked about and one kind with asparagus, lasagna, and finally two brave souls tried the rabbit. What I forgot to mention was after our appetizers came out the owner put his coat on and said it was his night off (it was already 8:30). But by the time he said goodbye personally to EVERY table - I'm not kidding - it was closer to 9pm before he got out. He did turn around outside the door and waved goodbye one more time. He was awesome.
After dinner the server came by and said the owner did want to give us a present. It was a very sweet wine from Sicily and was served in tall shot glasses. It was really really sweet. Photo taken of course. So thanks to Betty and Cara for scratching together enough euros to cover dinner. We walked back to the hotel and part of us came up and part of us went searching for gelato. I had in my mind a couple of Dove dark chocolates because I knew I'd be blogging late tonight, so I opted to skip the gelato...yes, I feel fine. I had gelato at the Vatican, so I did have a 'fix' today. I also took a peek with Guy at the park across the street and it has a sidewalk all the way around. I asked the guy at the desk what time it opened and he said "Early, why?" I told him I was interested in running. He said "How far?" I told him no more than 3 miles. He wanted to know because he was a runner and would take guests with him in the mornings - at 5am, but he runs half marathons. So I was a NO to both. He did say it was safe, with the occasional harmless weirdo out there (his exact words) but the Chinese would be doing their morning tai chi and it would be a quite pleasant run.
Not sure why my images are so slow to load today, but they are just random shots around the city, a couple of selfies (no stick used) and of course lots of food shots. So a fabulous farewell to day 3 in Rome, Italy. Looking forward to tomorrow. A promise of beautiful weather and a day filled with activities.